Review: Too Faced Boudoir Eyes Palette

Allow me to preface this review by saying that I don’t really go in for large palettes. I don’t own any of the Urban Decay Naked palettes for exactly that reason. I don’t doubt their quality or their beauty but when bloggers talk about how travel friendly they are, I can’t help but think that they must employ the use of some style of Mary Poppins make up bag because it certainly wouldn’t fit in my travel make up bag. And so I bought the Too Faced Boudoir Eyes palette as an alternative to the Naked palettes for this reason and also because the shades on offer in this palette are more to my preference than the myriad of bronzy browns in Urban Decay’s offerings.

The palette contains nine shades, which are separated into three “looks:” day, classic and fashion. The tin packaging provides a sturdier, and yes more “travel friendly” alternative to the brand’s other cardboard palettes. Five out of the nine shades in the palette are new and cater to the taupe lovers out there (myself included). Aside from the shades themselves, perhaps my favourite thing about the palette are the names – thank you Urban Dictionary for explain the meaning of ‘sugar walls.’

In the Buff – off white/cream matte

Fuzzy Handcuffs – Beige satin/sheen with peachy undertones – new shade

Voulez-vous – Aubergine purple shimmer – new shade

Satin Sheets – Champagne with a gold and pink reflect

Sugar Walls – Dusty pink micro glitter – new shade

Garter Belt – Cool-toned dark grey matte with slight brown undertone – new shade

Birthday Suit – Iridescent beige shimmer

Lap Dance – Taupe and silver shimmer

French Tickler – Matte black with gold micro glitter – new shade

The formula is great – soft with good, buildable pigmentation, no creasing and minimal fading. The only problem I encountered was with In the Buff, which came off quite chalky and had the poorest pigmentation in the palette.

However, for the price and quality, you can’t go wrong and this is definitely one of my most used palettes.

A Rough Guide: Rough Trade by Rob Young

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Where would music be without Rough Trade Records? Well, for a start there would be no Smiths, no Fall, no Libertines , no Cabaret Voltaire, Scritti Politi, British Sea Power or Belle and Sebastian. Not to mention any UK releases for The Go-Betweens, early Arcade Fire or The Strokes. In fact without Rough Trade Records or Geoff Travis, I fear we would all be forced to listen to every  Red Hot Chilli Peppers recording ever released – surely a fate worse than death. There is a reason thousands of music fans make the pilgrimage to the original Rough Trade shop in London every year.

The second offering the Labels Unlimited series, Rough Trade provides an illustrated and comprehensive history England’s most notable independent record label. The label began its life as a small record shop in Notting Hill in 1976. Founder, Geoff Travis opened the shop in an attempt to off load part of the vast record collection he had built up while travelling through America. The Rough Trade Shop – which still stands today and is a pilgrimage for all true indie connoisseurs – soon became the haunt for London’s thriving underground music community.

Unsatisfied with merely providing an outlet for small and unsigned bands to sell their wares, Travis expanded into recording and producing records for new up and coming musicians. The venture was never meant to be a business one – Rough Trade was designed specifically to develop bands, giving them an opportunity to record while they waited for offers from larger commercial record companies. After years of struggle, it suddenly occurred to Travis that it would be more beneficial for the company and the bands to stick together: Rough Trade would generate a better profit while the bands could sign to an Independent label and retain free reign over their music. Influential post-punk and experimental acts such as Cabaret Voltaire and Stiff Little Fingers signed to the label in quick succession, and the Rough Trade legacy was born.

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 A regular contributor to The Wire, Rob Young presents a well-informed narration of the Record label’s past. From its zenith during the mid eighties, through the company’s disastrous collapse on the cusp of 1990, to the slow rebuilding that has returned Rough Trade Records to its former glory, Young spares no detail. The book is divided into time periods, with each chapter named after a song by a band signed to Rough Trade. The chapters contain an exhaustive guide to the bands signed to the label during the particular period – tours, fights, and, of course, albums. It is to Young’s credit that he did not succumb to the temptation of focusing only on Rough Trade’s biggest bands; rather, he discusses dozens of interestingly off-kilter acts that were on the label, and it is often these bands that afford the most amusing anecdotes. However, having said this, the inclusion of every single band or musician ever signed to Rough Trade at some point in the label’s history means that all but the most serious of Rough Trade fans will be left flipping through the book, looking for the three bands they know. And how often do you actually find someone who is a fan of a record company? 

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Most interesting, and undoubtedly the first part of the book most readers will flip to is the chapter detailing Rough Trade’s tumultuous relationship with The Smiths. Appropriately, but perhaps slightly bitterly titled ‘1983-1986: Money Changes Everything,’ it relates the early amicable days of the band’s time with the label and the gradual degeneration of their association which led to The Smiths leaving Rough Trade. One particular quote from Morrissey encapsulates the story perfectly: “I tremble at the power we have, that’s how I feel about The Smiths. It’s there and it’s going to happen... What we want to achieve CAN be achieved on Rough Trade. Obviously we wouldn’t say no to Warners, but Rough Trade can do it too.” Reading this, one is left thinking that surely Travis should have seen what lay ahead, after all, Rough Trade’s DIY ethic always meant that they were limited in what they could offer financially, and the lure of money should never be underestimated. Morrissey claimed they would not say no to Warners and clearly, they didn’t.

Rough Trade is certainly an attractive book to look at. The cover art gives a brief but bright pictorial history of the record label. The pages are colour coordinated – white pages contain the chapters; pastel yellow marks out written and illustrative band retrospectives and interviews with everyone from musicians to an in depth interview Travis himself; and a complete Rough Trade discography is printed on bright yellow paper at the back of the book. The text is tempered with hundreds of photos, and while there are plenty of shots of the bands, it is pleasing to see that Young has not limited himself to the obligatory candid pictures of musicians smoking or drinking. Album covers, promotional posters, cartoons, even hand written directions to the shop scribbled on a Rough Trade Distribution catalogue.  Everything has been included here, so much so that the book’s size excludes it from the practicality of being able to read it anywhere but home – it is simply too big to carry around.

 

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Rough Trade presents a thoroughly detailed and engaging chronicle of one of the most important record labels in the history of rock music. It successfully straddles the line between fascinatingly knowledgeable and pretentiously over-informed.

Where would the music industry be without Rough Trade Records, and where would any music fan be without Rough Trade?

Rough Trade available here.

ASHA.

Chanel Rouge Allure #97 Incandescente - Swatch & Review

Much of my adult life has been tempered by the seemingly endless struggle to find the perfect red lipstick. Of course I am plagued by life's more serious questions like "where am I going with my life?" "Have I squandered my potential?" But it is when I am faced with these very real problems that my dissatisfaction with my red lipstick collection comes to the fore and I find myself aimlessly browsing cosmetic counters searching for THE red. The consummate crimson. The right rouge.

And thus, it was during one of these existential crises/shopping trips that I happened upon Chanel's Rouge Allure in #97 Incandescente. 

The Rouge Allure range is designed to provide "luminous, intense lip colour." Incandescente is a vibrant warm red with the slightest hint of orange without leaning too far into the orange spectrum. It is a magnificent fire red. In the light, an incredibly fine gold micro glitter can be seen but this shimmer does not translate onto the lips, rather it provides the promised  "luminosity."

The colour is extremely creamy and opaque and the formula provides a somewhat moisturising satin finish. This lipstick feels comfortable on the lips and wears well for around 4-5 hours before a touch is required. 

Libertine LFW Inspired Nail Tutorial

Is it just me or is it always fashion week? I imagine Anna Dello Russo must shrug and say "well, it's fashion week somewhere," before she dives into yet another absurd outfit. And still, I love it. The clothes, the make up, the nails, the spectacle. I love it.

I was taken with quite a few of the beauty looks this time round, and I hope to recreate a few on this blog, but this week I'm starting with Libertine's show. Butter London was responsible for both the make up and nails for Libertine's look. Bold natural brows, and sexy black sixties eyes with a hint of smoke around the very edges - perfect. Perhaps not for everyday but something to pull out when you're feeling especially daring.

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However, today I'm focusing on nails. And before we start I should apologise on the poor photo quality - I only had my iPhone camera today and I really wanted to get this post up.

Butter London nail artists used four polishes to create this look: Diamond Geezer, Stardust, Black Knight, and an as yet unreleased polish called Anorak, which is a chunky silver, black and white topcoat. Diamond shaped silver holographic glitter was then placed ad hoc to finish the look.
To recreate this look, you will need a silver foil/metallic polish, a silver glitter polish and a glitter polish with a dark base (preferably black), and some silver glitter/sequins.
I used Australis Nail Colour in Foil Spoil, OPI Serving Up Sparkle, Zoya Fei Fei (I have misplaced my bottle of Butter London Black Knight and this was the closest thing I had to a dark glitter - a charcoal grey/navy blue base with gold and silver micro glitter), and diamond holographic glitter from Born Pretty Store.

Start by applying two coats of a silver foil polish.

Next apply your silver glitter polish on the top two-thirds of your nails creating a subtle glittery ombre.

Apply a few coats of your dark glitter polish to the top third of your nails to build up the desired colour.

Apply a clear polish over the nail and, using an orange stick or bobby pin, stick the holographic glitter in a haphazard pattern down the nail, making sure not to cover to much of the glitter ombre.

Finally, all you need is a good topcoat to keep everything in place. Et viola! Chic LFW nails, dahhling.

P.S. I'm sorting out the camera situation so photos with actual resolution of some description are imminent, so hang tight. 

Cruelty Free Brands #1 - Illamasqua

Once upon a time I thought that I was a relatively good person. I volunteered at the RSPCA, I apologised to people who bump into me, occasionally I even bought a copy of the Big Issue. However, the might and venom of the internet's extremist vegan faction swiftly relieved me of this thought. After all, what is the internet for if not the radicalisation of beliefs and anonymous victimisation of others by people who would normally be perfectly pleasant in the non-virtual world?

You see, I had been attempting to research and locate ethically raised meat in my area but my search only led me to forums where I was brusquely informed in no uncertain terms that such a thing did not exist and that the very notion of ethically raised meat was an oxymoron and I was a fool to believe otherwise. I couldn't deny their conviction but existing health problems meant that taking meat & dairy out of my diet would leave me with a very restricted palette.

So, what does this have to do with anything? We'll, after this meat lambasting I decided I could do a little more for animal welfare by making more of a concerted effort in the cruelty-free beauty stakes. That's not to say I don't still get suckered in the alluring packaging of Chanel and their ilk but I try. Thankfully there are hundreds of affordable and high quality cruelty-free products on the market and first in my sights is Illamasqua - an incredible brand that doesn't receive nearly the virtual blogger love it deserves.

Two products I use every single day are the Skin Base foundation (in SB06) and the concealer (in cc135). The Skin Base foundation provides medium coverage with a satin finish - it's neither matte nor particularly "dewy," a finish which Illamasqua describes as "skin realism." This foundation blends well into the skin and does not highlight any dry patches. There are an impressive 25 shades in the range and shockingly, my colour is not nearly the palest - they even make a white shade for mixing with others. The concealer performs equally well - good coverage without becoming cakey or separating throughout the day.

I use the powder blush in Disobey as a contour on days when I want to chisel out those cheekbones a little more. This is an incredibly highly pigmented product which requires a light hand to apply but still blends really well.

Equally pigmented and blendable are these eyeshadows in Boomerang, Fiasco and Creep. The Precision ink in Scribe is a white liquid liner pen which I mostly use for nail art. 

It is very opaque and is perfect for fine lines and sharp points.

Lastly, we have the lipsticks, the product for which the brand is perhaps most well known. I own the shades Maneater and Shard. 

Shard is described as a matte red violet - a deep purple with red undertones. Maneater is a classic true red which would suit all skin tones. Both lipsticks have a matte finish but do not drag on the lips during application, nor do I find them particularly drying for a matte.

These lipsticks are richly pigmented and do not need to be built up on the lips.

I think perhaps some people may be shy of Illamasqua because it may be seen as more of an 'alternative' brand catering to those with more daring or exotic tastes (which it does magnificently); however, it also produces high quality, wearable products suitable for the more conservative amongst us and those who prefer a more natural makeup look. Thus, whatever your inclinations, Illamasqua has you covered.

Not Rad, Just Bad

Is the 90s revival over yet? Is it safe once more to leave our houses wearing reasonably waisted pants? Can we bring out our dead overalls and thrust them onto the bonfire and watch the extravagantly long zippers fizzle and burn like an unflattering denim Guy Fawkes night? Will government task forces begin to ruthlessly turn away shipping container after shipping container of "Mom" jeans and hideous white flatform sandles? I imagine that when the revolution finally comes (and beware 90s nostalgics,  for it will), as we throw down the Rave Wear oppressors, and cast off the burden of leggings-as-pants, we will see things as they really are for the first time since the first whispers of clothes-for-irony's-sake were heard amongst the Millennials; and as we burn the caustically bright patterns, obnoxious slogans and retina-searing apparel, there will be much gnashing of teeth as the spirits of the 90s flee the flames to phantom realms, subject to the eternal torment of endless DJ Jazzy Jeff and the Fresh Prince albums.

The humanity!
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But, you protest, surely this trend is not quite the breaking of the seventh seal that I suggest? I am forgetting all of the bountiful gifts the 90s have given us, like cropped fluffy jumpers, tartan and Dr Martens. And yes, this is true - in part. I love all of those things, but, in the mighty tradition of fashion borrowing from the past, they were born in other eras (the 50s and the 70s' punk movement respectively). Unfortunately, fashion is like the friend you never want to lend things to because they always return them in poor condition.Take for example, "millennium" fashion: in the lead up to the year 2000 fashion took the 60s' Barbarella, futuristic space sex kitten aesthetic and gave us shiny millennium-themed turds - skirts over pants and so much cosmetic glitter body gel.
Perhaps, in many ways we revisit past trends the way that we recall past romances and previously forgotten exes. We're lonely, or bored, or looking for something so far removed from wear we presently find ourselves that we wind up pining for the past through rose-coloured glasses. We rekindle old flames and it is not until we lean in for the first reunion kiss that we remember just how poor their dental hygiene was. Or how universally unflattering denim dungarees really are.

No scrubs and no dignity.
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Maybe it's because I'm old now, and can make no sense of "youths." Maybe it's because I actually remember the 90s and can do nothing now but watch the sartorial mistakes of the past repeat themselves, just as those who remember the original Robocop can merely stand back in silent disbelief and watch as a new generation digs up the festering corpse, ready to relive the nightmare (et tu, Gary Oldman?) A new generation crying, "YES! I choose badly written, poorly devised cinematic fap!" "YES! I choose brown lipstick and sun dresses over t shirts!"
You see, the 90s weren't like Clueless or The Craft. They were more like one long episode of Neighbours. Less cute co-ordinates and more long denim skirts buttoned all the way to your ankles. Less knee socks and more cargo pants and turtle necks under overalls (the modern chastity belt). I remember the two-toned sunglasses 9hell, I even had a pair of blue-green ones in my wayward pre-teens). I remember the platform sandles, the skin-flaying, blister-inducing jelly shoes made from a material impossible to break-in, and I remember the clogs. Yes, the clogs, and their "special" cousin, the mules. Suede, trimmed with wool, backless, trimmed with suede flowers. That's not just the kind of thing a person can forget so easily as though it were nothing. You try and leave those memories in the past and move on with your life, and just when you think you've finally put it all behind you, BAM! Miu Miu and Jimmy Choo try and revive them.

The herpes of shoes.
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Stop it, Jimmy, it's been done before and it didn't work out - leave the past to the past.
Forget it, Miu Miu, it's Chinatown!

While we may not have the strength to band together and rise up against such ill-advised revisionist fashion, the very least we can do is quietly ride out the tide of flannelette and try to forget that we could be so neglectful to let it happen for a second time.
Take back the day. Take back the clothes rack. And for the love of all that is holy, take off those bloody overalls!

Summer Festival Beauty Essentials

Everyone needs a cause to get behind, and this is the one which caused me to awake from my digital slumber and reneg my abandonment of this blog. You see, friends and I rang in the new year dancing to The Roots at Falls Festival in Byron bay a few weeks ago. The weather was hideous - hot, humid, with only enough wind to cover everything in a fine layer of dust.

Before I left I pondered a great deal about what I should take beauty wise. Apart from the obvious sunscreen, I felt I needed to turn to the thousands of internet beauty pros for some advice. Unfortunately, the only articles I could find on this subject were tutorials involving flower crowns, denim nappy shorts and an inch layer of makeup. Not the most practical look for hungover application in a sweltering tent in the middle of a valley.

So, out of sheer exasperation, I've given myself a little retrospective advice on what to take to a camping festival, and what to leave behind.

L to R: Ole Henriksen Truth to Go Wipes; Urban Decay Naked Basics palette; Maybelline Brow Drama in Dark Brown; Mecca Cosmetica To Save Face matte facial sunscreen; Lancome Hypnose waterproof mascara; Shu Uemura lash curlers; Topshop cream blush in Afternoon Tea; Illamasqua blush in Disobey; Illamasqua cream concealer; Korres Quince lip balm; Bare Minerals Mineral Veil setting powder.

At the time I felt these were the bare essentials but the eyeshadows were quickly cast aside. First and foremost, however, is a good sunscreen. I spent too much of my workdays searching for a facial sunscreen that wouldn't break me out or leave me looking like an oil slick. I considered Clarins and La Roche-Posay but ultimately settled on Mecca Cosmetica's To Save Face. It does exactly what it says on the tube - a matte finish, no oil and fairly good protection. I forewent foundation and just went for a cream concealer and a sweep of setting powder. I am a great fan of Illamasqua, and their cream concealer is no exception, however, I did find it separated a little from the heat, so perhaps a liquid concealer would have been better. At the end of each night I used the Ole Henriksen Truth to Go wipes to remove my makeup. These wipes are a must have when you're travelling and don't have your usual skin products at hand.

I used Illamasqua's blush in Obey to lightly contour and bronze - well, as close to bronzing as I'll ever get, being so morbidly pale. It's so pigmented you only need the lightest of touches. Cream blushers seem last longer on my skin and look more natural and dewy so I opted for Topshop's Afternoon Tea. This was my first experience with both cream blush and Topshop makeup and I was pleasantly surprised. The blush is incredibly bright but blends out well with naught but fingers.

As I mentioned, I did pack my Urban Decay Naked Basics palette for a natural eye but on waking up the first morning in a hot tent, it was too much to attempt anything non-essential for Went straight to eyelash curling and waterproof liner and mascara. I am on a continuous search for the ultimate liquid liner pen - I've tried countless - and Maybelline Masterpiece liner is the only one I've been happy enough with to keep. It's not perfect but it doesn't smudge and it's opaque in one swipe so I can't really complain. You may not need anything for your brows but my unruly caterpillars need something to at least keep them in place everyday and Maybelline's brow drama does the job.
Waterproof mascara is essential for a festival - I've been to good many music festivals all over the world and if it's not sweltering heat or rain ruining your eye makeup, it's the drunk punters flinging beer and water all up in your business. Lancome Hypnose Star waterproof is so long wearing I struggle to remove it.

All I wore on my lips was the Korres lip butter in Quince - very moisturising with a plummy tint (although mine did melt in the heat). I saw quite a few girls walking around in matte red lipsticks (obviously searching out the festival fashion photographers) and while they looked enviable, I couldn't help think why bother? It's far too impractical to have to carefully reapply a heavy drying lipstick all day. But then that's the festival experience so many people these days, isn't it? Walking the fine line between edgy and cool, and too tired and filthy to even pretend you're not trying to be edgy and cool.

So, that's it. If you're interested in seeing a FOTD with these products, or want to see another festival guide (maybe a fashion one which doesn't involve bikini tops worn as clothing), comment below. I'll try to join in on the slightly narcissistic peculiarly millennial phenomenon of regular blogging so please let me know what you'd like to read about.

THANKS!